Twentymile River (August 2, 2021)

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    Jule Harle
    Keymaster

      Sixmile gauge:

      Glacier creek gauge:

      Gradient: _____fpm Lost 260 ft in 14 miles

      Rating: Class II

      Character: A popular beginner packrafting run for southcentral Alaska paddlers. Great symmetry with equal amounts hiking & paddling. This can be done as a long day trip or casual overnight. This is many people’s first real taste of Alaska packrafting. This trip has a reputation for being “epic” as the river portion has some surprises for the unaware beginner & the hike is often underestimated. This run is often spoken of casually, however although the whitewater is beginner friendly, there are some safety concerns & trip planning considerations to be aware of when getting ready for this trip (see below descriptions)

      Put in: (for hike): Alyeska Resort OR Nordic Loop Parking Lot

      Take out: Twenty Mile boat launch, mile _____on Seward Highway

      Shuttle: (bikeable, decent shoulder)

      Hike Description:

      Distance: 11.5 miles, 5-7 hours

      Elev gain/loss: +1900 ft, -1700 ft
      You can begin the hike at either Alyeska Resort or the 5K Nordic Loop in Girdwood on the Hand Tram/Winner Creek Trail. If beginning from the Nordic look parking lot, stay to the right on the gravel road (groomed ski trail in winter) for ½ mile, keeping your eyes open for a small trail on the right that connects you to the Winner Creek trail. From here, the trail is wide & easy walking for the next 2 miles.
      At the trail junction, head right, following signs towards Berry Pass. The trail soon begins gradually working up the Winner Creek Valley and becomes more narrow. In summer months, expect the trail to be overgrown & brushy with berry bushes & cow parsnip- you may get soaking wet if there’s morning dew or it has rained recently
      There are a few creek crossings, but most have strategically placed logs over them as makeshift bridges. Just before 6 miles into the hike, there’s a steep & rocky creek crossing that looks intimidating, as the water is loud from the gradient & there’s a cascading waterfall from above. The better place to cross is 20-30 ft higher than the trail would suggest.
      After the crossing, it’s another mile until you get to Berry Pass, elevation 2070 ft. From here, the trail winds through beautiful alpine tundra with views of neighboring Chugach Peaks. It’s worth taking some time up high to soak up the views or take an extended break. Plenty of camping spots if you’re doing this trip as an overnight.
      The trail descends gradually at first from the pass into the Primrose Creek Valley. Once you leave the alpine, the trail again becomes thick & brushy & hard to see your feet at times. This part is what many people refer to as “the bushwhack,” although there is a social trail the whole way down. After 10 miles of total walking, you’ll see a bridge over Primrose Creek. This bridge to nowhere offers some cool views of Primrose Creek, but follow signs towards the left that direct you down towards creek. Follow this unmaintained social trail for less than ¼ mile until meeting with Primrose.
      Most people put on here, (waypoint 60.96548, -148.90123) on the gravel bar & paddle Primrose Creek for ¾ mile until the confluence with Twentymile. If the water is high, the gravel bar not the most ideal spot for a large group put in, but it works. If the water is low & clear (late summer or in the fall) it might be worth walking down Primrose Creek. Even if it looks like there’s enough water to float, expect this section to feel bumpy and rocky.
      Although Primrose is class II, beginners often get in trouble here, as there is problem wood and mandatory portages that come up quick. Most of the portages are on the left, but this can change as new wood spots can easily be created. If you’re not familiar with looking downstream & avoiding hazards, go with someone who is familiar with the run or can read rivers. MANY paddlers have had scary swims and lost gear in these sections. In 2021, the longest portage was ¼ mile in, (waypoint 60.96507, -148.89275). Get out on the left, as the creek becomes impassable from overgrown brush. Walk a few minutes downstream before putting back on. The creek may braid & thin out at times; stay on guard for wood & be ready to get out of your boat quickly.
      Once you actually get to Twentymile (waypoint 60.96558, -148.88185), you’ll have much more water and better views. However, don’t relax just yet, as there are some tricky wood spots to maneuver around and brushy banks to avoid for the next 2 miles. After 2 miles, you’ll have to get out & portage on the left; the creek again goes into impassable overgrown brush. In 2021, this spot was (waypoint 60.95425, -148.86108), but this could easily change from year to year.
      You’ll navigate about 2 more miles of class II before the river begins to widen and gradually slows down to class I. Great photo opportunities & break beaches throughout this stretch. As you progress downstream, the water becomes even slower moving- less of a river and more of a “moving lake” kind of feel. The last 6-7 miles are a popular jet boating area; be on the lookout and please yield. (it’s courtesy to “group up” or at least paddle to the same side of the river when a motorboat approaches).
      The final 2 miles can serve up a pretty strong upstream wind from the Turnagain Arm. Be prepared to paddle hard- it is definitely worth timing your last few miles with an outgoing tide. Attempting to paddle against an incoming high tide can feel like a lost battle, especially with an upstream wind.

      River Description:

      Total Paddling Time: 4-6 hours

      Primrose Creek: under 1 mile (- 50 ft) 30 min

      TwentyMile River: 14 miles (-240 ft) 3-5 hours
      Most people put on here, (waypoint 60.96548, -148.90123) on the gravel bar & paddle Primrose Creek for ¾ mile until the confluence with Twentymile. If the water is high, the gravel bar not the most ideal spot for a large group put in, but it works. If the water is too low & running clear, (late summer or in the fall) it might be worth walking down Primrose Creek. Even if it looks like there’s enough water to float, expect this section to feel bumpy and rocky.
      Although Primrose is class II, beginners often get in trouble here, as there is problem wood and mandatory portages that come up quick. Most of the portages are on the left, but this can change as new wood spots can easily be created. Eddies aren’t ideal for large groups, so spacing out is a good idea. If you’re not familiar with looking downstream & avoiding hazards, go with someone who is familiar with the run or can read rivers. MANY newer paddlers have had scary swims and lost gear in these sections. In 2021, the longest portage was ¼ mile in, (waypoint 60.96507, -148.89275). Get out on the left, as the creek becomes impassable from overgrown brush. Walk a few minutes downstream before putting back on. The creek may braid & thin out at times; stay on guard for wood & be ready to get out of your boat quickly.
      Once you actually get to Twentymile (waypoint 60.96558, -148.88185), you’ll have much more water and better views. However, don’t relax just yet, as there are some tricky wood spots to maneuver around and brushy banks to avoid for the next 2.5 miles. After 2 miles, you’ll have to get out & portage on the left; the creek again goes into impassable overgrown brush. In 2021, this spot was (waypoint 60.95425, -148.86108), but this could easily change from year to year- keep your eyes on the downstream!
      You’ll navigate about 2 more miles of class II before the river begins to widen and gradually slows down to class I. Great photo opportunities & break beaches throughout this stretch. As you progress downstream, the water becomes even flatter & slower moving- less of a river and more of a “moving lake” kind of feel. The final 6-7 miles are a popular jet boating area; be on the lookout and please yield. (FYI it’s courtesy to “group up” or at least have your group plan to paddle towards the same side of the river when a motorboat approaches).
      The final 2 miles can serve up a pretty strong upstream wind from the Turnagain Arm. Be prepared to paddle hard if conditions call for it! It is definitely worth timing the end of this run with an outgoing tide. Attempting to paddle against an incoming high tide can feel like a lost battle, especially with an upstream wind.

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